Do not believe that the solar system does not require maintenance. Of course, it works without it, fortunately for many years, but with a little care, its lifespan and efficiency can be significantly improved.
Take a few centiliters of the mixed antifreeze into a plastic container through the safety or drain valve. Check with an indicator strip pH.
The pH can be read in the middle on the color-coded indicator paper, which must be between 6.9 and 7.5.
The pH of the rinsing water is strongly acidic
I assume you don’t have a refractometer at home to measure your freezing point, so take a few drops of the sample to one of the gas stations and look there. Tell the wellman to look at the propylene glycol scale.
The pressure in the expansion tank during operation is the same as the air and antifreeze. There is only a membrane between the two. However, it doesn’t matter how much liquid is in the tank.
If there is too much fluid, that is, little air, if the system heats up, there will be little space left for the expanding antifreeze, so the pressure will increase greatly.
If, on the other hand, there is too little liquid, that is, a lot of air, if the system cools down, the shrinking antifreeze may run out of the tank, and the system pressure will drop.
The ideal condition is between the two, That is, if the tank is half antifreeze and half air during operation.
This can be achieved as follows:
This expansion tank has not been operational since the initial commissioning. The system operating pressure was 3 bar, but the air in the expansion tank was inflated to 4 bar. Therefore, the antifreeze could not enter the expansion tank. It was as if it weren’t.
If you find that the pressure in the system is much lower than normal operating pressure, it can be assumed that the antifreeze is leaking somewhere.
Also check for leaks. Swipe your finger along the bottom of the connectors. If your finger gets wet, there is an error.
This is such a small loss, the source of which you are unlikely to find. What’s more, there may be no leaks, just some steam escaping in high heat through the automatic deaerator.
This is only required if the antifreeze test has indicated that it is too acidic or too alkaline. The freezing point must be -23°C or below. If the pH and the freezing point is adequate and the liquid appears clear, the antifreeze can remain in the system for up to 5-10 years. Or until demolition.
Most of the antifreeze can be drained with the drain tap at the bottom of the system. However, the non-return valve may retain some fluid, so it is advisable to break the circuit on the other side of the valve so that the residue also drains.
If there is no drain plug at the lowest point, one of the detachable joints must be broken there.
If you have purchased antifreeze concentrate , it must be diluted. If you bought it from us, you have to mix one and a half times as much water with it. This will give a concentration of 40% and a freezing point of about -23°C. It is advisable to use a clean plastic container (bucket).
Don’t forget to bleed the system. After deaeration, if the pressure has dropped slightly, pump in a little more antifreeze mixture. Only then remove the hose from the pump.
Against the common misconception, the function of the anode is not to protect against limescale.
The anode is responsible for protecting the boiler from punctures. If a damage, such as a hairline crack, occurs somewhere on the internal enamel, the iron wall of the boiler may start to rust and puncture over time. This is prevented by the anode forming a galvanic cell with the iron under the crack. As a result, it is not the iron that is oxidized, but the anode wear.
Therefore, if you see that the anode is badly worn during disassembly, be sure to replace it.
